THE SECRETS OF ISHBAR

Reaching Srinagar

As the dusty bus crosses the Banihal tunnel
the air becomes scented and zippy
and the passengers break out into a loud cheer. 

We strain into the distance
to guess where Verinag might be
to begin tracing Vitasta's course. 

At Kazigund we order egg paranthas
and now the driver races through---
Kashmiri songs blaring on the radio---
Khanabal, Bijbehara
the ruins of Avantipura
the saffron fields of Pampur
and then to the kulcha shops further on.
It is quite dark when we reach Srinagar. 

We wait in a corner as father gets our holdalls and trunks
and we climb aboard the tonga---
horseshoes flashing in the dark
against the asphalt of the road.